Japan February 2024Written and drawn by Chu

Animosulo (left) and Chu (right)

             2/9 I'm back in Japan for vacation! I always end up going in February because it's cheap... No cherry blossoms, no holidays, cold as hell. I unironically LOVE the fancy toilets with heated seats and bidets! Chu: Finally, civilization... control panel, playing sounds of rushing water to protect your privacy? lol Barely made it into the country and a rude traveler bumped into me and was rude to an airport employee... Rude traveler: Speak English, then! Chu: She did. Jerk... I'm visiting my old friend Animosulo! Chu: This sandwich tastes so much better than I thought it would be... Animosulo: That's conbini food for ya! ham & egg from Family mart   2/10 Day Mister Donut!! Pon de Ring-like donuts recently became available in Phoenix, but it's just not the same! crunchy chocolate pon de ring Angel cream (whipped cream) Chu: It's amazing that people leave their stuff to save a table. You couldn't do that in the states. Animosulo: Yeah. My friends tell me travel agencies warn them that their stuff will get stolen. In Animo's apartment: Beastars mug Chu: I refuse. I will drink from the Eevee mug. Animosulo: REALLY?! Animo's Japanese credit card was rejected several times while trying to order bullet train tickets. At one point, getting a new kind of error message felt like an accomplishment. Sorry, we noticed you aren't Japanese. We apologize for the inconvenience. [OK] [Thx] Sorry... I'm joking!!! (He got them in the end.)2/10 Night Animo and I went to Omiya. I won cute sea slug plushies from a UFO catching in the Taito arcade! Animosulo: I wish I could win a prize... Chu: I never know who the hell these anime ladies are We went browsing for toys and manga in a secondhand store called Book Off. We got into a quiet debate about Dungeon Meshi in the manga aisle. Blah blah but Laios blah blah blah senshi bla blah Falin blah blah We met one of my parents for dinner. She is on her own, separate trip in Japan. It took a while to figure out what we wanted for dinner and ALMOST settled for Saizeriya... but didn't! yakitori, purple potato croquettes, gobo/burdock chips, gyoza My parent is trans and has had surgery. Apparently someone gave her a hard time for being in the "wrong" onsen. Chu's parent: I didn't know what to say, so I just... "flashed the goods" and she apologized. Chu: Guess I should be prepared for that possibility...Observation #1 In Japan you can charge a proxy card with money to conveniently board trains without constantly buying new tickets. Suica, Passmo I used to be able to tap my whole wallet on the ticket gate, but now it keeps reacting to my tap to pay credit cards and rejecting me! Chu: WHAT! It's really not a big deal to have to take the card out of my wallet every time, but it's like spending an extra "action point" I never needed to before. betrayed by technology Observation #2 Animosulo: Ugh, I hate that sound! It feels like my teeth are gonna fall out! Chu: ?? Tokyo has implemented devices called "The Mosquito" that emit irritating sounds to deter young people from loitering near buildings. Chu: ???? Animosulo: Stand right here. Apparently, I am either old enough or hard of hearing enough to be immune. Chu: But I still think that's a sick thing to do! 2/11 Day Animo and I rode a bullet train (Nozomi) to Osaka. Americans don't know about the glorious luxury that's been kept from them by airline companies. I felt a little queasy, so I couldn't eat my train bento on the train... Beautiful view of Mt. Fuji obscured by clouds... Chu: I wish Japan had legal weed... SIGH We braved the intense crowds of Osaka Station to shop at the Pokémon Center! bump smak push shove shove bump shuffle push Animo reserved the "Peanuts Jazz Room" at a hotel near Universal Studios! It's beautifully decorated, so it's a shame that it's being discontinued after March. Chu: That's enough of that room radio playing Peanuts theme on loop

The Peanuts “Jazz Room”

2/11 Night I think gender is an inconvenience. I am nonbinary (AFAB), no HRT or surgery. Due to PCOS, I have facial hair that I let grow into a handsome (in my opinion) beard. Last month during a family visit, my mom strongarmed me into using a sauna at a casino resort. Despite feeling awkward about my beard, I had a good experience... with mixed feelings. Chu: I guess none of the women mind because... I always get clocked at AFAB anyway I was going to shave my beard in order to use the female-only onsens in Japan, but since no one cared in California, I went for it in Osaka anyway. Beard and all. Chu: Here goes nothing! My bravery was rewarded! No one bothered or talked to me!!! Chu: I'm just a hairy foreigner! Please ignore me!!!2/12 Day We went to Universal Studios Japan! And Discovered that Super Nintendo World required a separate (free) ticket, so we wouldn't be allowed in until 8pm. Animo: We have to wait 8.5 hours... Chu: I refuse to go to H**** P***** land. Demon Slayer seemed to be the second most popular property at the park. I haven't watched or read it yet. You can get a commemorative popcorn holder of Nezuko in her box. We tried the cherry flavored popcorn, but I didn't like it. We watched the "No Limit" parade. Even though it was short, it was still really good! I was jazzed to see Pokémon and Mario Kart floats! nearly moved to tears We attempted to ride "Hollywood Dream: The Ride", but a staff member guided us to a test seat and I was too fat for it. Chu: This has never happened before! ow! my body ow!

2/12 Night I kept getting caught off-guard by staff members smiling and waving at us randomly. Then I realized... Chu: They're probably told to do it to make people feel more welcome? Animo: Foreigners specifically, I bet! I took a bazillion photos of merch. The product design and food theming of Japan is truly on another level. My favorite merch I didn't buy Chu: This dino is drinking trans juice pink & blue Finally-- Super Nintendo World!! We made a beeline for the Mario Kart ride, which was awesome as well as confusing and overwhelming. Because we didn't want to buy the 3200 yen wristbands for the interactive games, and according to the internet, I may be too fat for the Yoshi Ride, we spent the rest of our time in Nintendo World shopping and eating as much as we could. Mushroom cream popcorn Chu: 大漁 大漁 What a haul!

2/13 Day On the bullet train from Osaka back to where Animo lives, I got to see a beautiful, clear view of Mt. Fuji. So pretty! Chu: OOOH We rearranged our luggage at Animo's apartment and soon headed back out to Tokyo Station for our trip to Nagano. So many hills... So many stairs... literally uphill both ways Animo: You doing okay? Chu: WHEEZE Animo splurged on our tickets and reserved seats for us on the "Gran Class"-- the most luxurious car of the bullet train. Mt. Fuji in distance during sunset fancy snacks bento Nagano Station's mascot is Nagamo. Why are they so stinking cute?!

2/13 Night Animo and I went to a small sushi restaurant for dinner. They seemed happy that we knew Japanese. The food was all beautiful and delicious! chirashi, veggie sticks, the best miso paste I've had in my life, asst. maki, nigiri set New skill unlocked: appreciation of uni (sea urchin) and umeboshi (pickled plum). Quality really matters! Maybe someday, nattou will finally click for me... happy... yummy We tried to put on something to watch back in the hotel room, but it ended up being more fun to laught [sic] at how many freaking isekai anime there are!! Animo: Holy shit, is this guy's power just "having a gun"?? (sadly, no) Spent like an hour soaking in the tub before going to bed. Unlike most of the tubs in U.S. hotel rooms, (and certain theme park rides) I fit comfortably. Chu: Ah...2/14 Day After a lovely breakfast, Animo and I ended up talking about the ethical treatment of animals for the sake of tourism. We decided not to see the famous snow monkeys after all. On the way to Zenkou-ji Temple, I stopped at a cat-themed store to buy stuff. I told the clerk about my 16-year old cat Gil, who originally came from Japan's Lake Biwa. We donated money and burned incense for good luck at Zenkou-ji Temple. Chu: Gimme all the luck you got! PLEASE While shopping at Animate, I realized I should make an effort to read Dungeon Meshi in Japanese. Chu: ...I CAN read this!

2/14 Night With Animo's assistance, I won a cute dolphin and Slowpoke plushie bags for my friends! 1st try! [redacted] tries... It wasn't until I was in Nagano for a while that I realized this area was the namesake of Okami's Shinshu Plains. Makes sense! Cursed_Shinshuu_Plains.mp3 信 shin 州 shuu Animo and I went to a soba restaurant and had lots of fun talking to the wait staff. I drew Mewtwo and Eevee in their guest book. Chu: I may be fat and stupid, but I sure can draw!!! THX POKéMON2/15 Day I thought I would be able to find Nagamo merchandise at Nagano Station. I couldn't find it anywhere... We arrived at Shibu Onsen, a small mountain town all about onsen. We had fun exploring the small shrines around the edge of town. Animo: Ooh Chu: Ahh I really appreciated that I could use a translation app to help understand the difficult Japanese on various signs, especially around the shrines & onsen. Chu: Technology is amazing! The ryokan we stayed in is 400 years old! It's a maze of low ceilings, stairs, and walkways across multiple buildings Male staff member: She's been here 400 years, too! Female staff member: Ghost! * real interaction2/15 Night I love onsen! I used to be too shy, but now I don't care. Onsen are wonderful. Chu: I don't like wearing yukata, though. Animo: Why not? The yukata provided by inns or onsen are sized based on height. I am simply too wide. It's very awkward for me. I just gave up. Chu: I fee [sic] like a poorly wrapped Christmas present... Animo: Maybe it's time to buy a custom tailors one... We brought our fursuit partials with us! We had fun taking silly photos in town. Japanese tourist: そんなことある?! When it started to rain, we headed back to the inn and enjoyed a soak in one of the private outdoor baths.

2/16 Day Animo and I spent all day doing a self-guided tour of 9 public baths, each one with a unique stamp to be used on a commemorative souvinir [sic] cloth. use an app to translate the info sign/w the onsen's origin story enjoy the bath as much as possible stamp the cloth! We took a break for lunch at a local shop. The kitchen looked...... but the food was great! Best miso ramen I've ever eaten in my life? SLURP! 大 big miso ramen A friendly French woman I encountered [and] I encountered a rude Japanese woman who complained about the water temperature and started making it hotter while we were in it. Rude Japanese woman: I haven't gotten in yet, the water's lukewarm! talking to her companion on the male side Chu: Go swim in lava then, sheesh... Literally everyone else we met on this trip was very kind and friendly. Besides, we did it! We visited all 9 baths!

2/16 Night Ryokan food is lovely. I get to try a lot of different authentic dishes that U.S. restaurants usually don't have. mushroom mystery, monkfish liver (yum!), creamy crab, giant bean? no idea, squishy, fish, beautiful sashimi, dunno but it tasted good Animo and I took advantage of a private onsen to carefully take some neat fursuit head photos. We thought of fursuiting again, but we decided to drink while talking about nerd crap instead. Chu and Animo: かんぱい! I like learning about regional specialties while traveling in Japan. I think we sampled all of Shinshuu's: soba "bocchi" bundles, nozawana (leafy green often pickled), miso (as a paste and in ramen), apples (cider, gelato, juice, always yummy) but not... Nagamo....

2/17 Day For breakfast at the ryokan, I managed to eat 5 whole beans of nattou without thinking they were gross! i didn't want to push my luck... Chu: It's a new personal record! One day I WILL learn to appreciate nattou... While leaving, we met a wildlife photographer who was on an assignment to photograph the snow monkeys. Photographer: This was harder than tracking gorillas! Japan is not built for those with mobility problems. Nagamo was NOWHERE to be seen in Nagano Station. Not even the staff working at the station recognized it. Chu: DAMN YOU, BEAR!! I want Nagamo! crappy not-Nagamo regional mascot When we made it back to Animo's apartment, we both took a nap. Animo: ZZZ... Chu: ZZZ

2/17 Night Got a small bento at the supermarket for just $2! I also bought souvenirs for Gil. I love my cat! Gil: Thanks, babe. Cat food in the states doesn't have shirasu (whitebait)! He's gonna love it! We went to Wolf Bar in Asakusa! (@asakusa_wolf) The bar owner is a wolf who can make custom drinks based on his patron's [sic] fursonas. Everyone at Wolf Bar was so friendly! We were very happy to be treated warmly! @modern_lobo As if I got blessed by furry power, I finally found a much coveted food item: an honest to God PAWBUN!! part of a Cat Day (2/22) themed promotion

2/18 Day Today Animo and I went hunting for otaku treasures in Akihabara. As usual, I didn't know who the hell most of the anime ladies I saw were. Chu: This WHOLE FLOOR is "Horse Girls"?? Animosulo: Do they do horse races? Chu: NOOO!! Weak ass claw!! FAILED to win a Cetoddle plush for Sot Finally ate Magikarp taiyaki Confused because the "Tales of" shop all but evaporated in Kotobukiya We also went to Nakano Broadway, which I knew as a fantastic place to shop for secondhand nerd crap like cels and figures! With Animo's help, I won a Dragonair plush! With my help, Animo found and bought another one for 2000 yen! TBH Nakano Broadway feels a bit different from what I remember. It's still a great place to shop, but it feels... gentrified. Chu: What's with all the jewelry stores? 2/18 Night We met my former colleagues in the JET Program for dinner. They stayed in Japan with new jobs after I left in 2011. James, Denton, Marisa It was fun to reminisce about our time in Saitama over good food. cheese tofu, daikon tower, beautiful sashimi (I forgot to take a reference photo tho) We got more drinks at the conbini and ranted about whatever at Inokashira Park well into the night. Animo and I debated about Pokémon for two hours and then realized we were on the same side? We were tired lol2/19 Day Today I got to see my best friend from middle and high school. She brought along her super cute daughter! does not know me Even though we haven't made a habit of talking much these days, I'm always really happy when I get to see her again! won a doll for her daughter I lent her daughter my Copic pens. I was happy to sacrifice them. Kima: Uh... Your pens are destroyed now... Chu: It's ok. She's cute. MASH! KRNCH! It was a fun and chill afternoon. It was nice being around my old friend's familiar mannerisms. Keeps ordering salmon @ conveyor belt sushi practicing reading SOOOO cute!!

2/19 Night I parted ways with my friend & her kid and headed to the Skytree to meet Animo. Listening to Like a Dragon & Yakuza 0 music on the subway Chu: The public transit here is just AMAZING! Animo and I made it to the Kirby Café! Sometimes these themed cafés can be weak, but the Kirby café was the best I've been to. my fav., the "invincible parfait" most surprisingly delicious food: "cajun spice" dipping sauce Back at Animo's apartment, I arranged my things to prepare for the trip back home. My small suitcase was FILLED with souvenirs. I did my part to help the Japanese economy. Chu: Did I buy too much? Animo: No such thing! Tired from an exhausting but extremely fun and blessed trip, Animo and I spent the night watching Thermae Romae. Chu: I love anime where the lesson is, "Japan rocks" Animo: Relatable!

2/20 Day I met my friend, Kima, again, this time w/0 her daughter. I gave my 4th Pokémon Center on this trip more of my money. Chu: I have NO willpower... Clodsire plush A UFO Catcher with a Raichu utterly defeated me, but Kima won it for me in just 3 tries!!! Chu: IT WON'T EVEN LOOK at me! Chu: THANK U!! I'm really glad I could see my old friend again. It did my heart good! This'll be the last panel, since it was my last day in Japan. Thank you to Animosulo for making this vacation happen! And thanks to all my friends for being awesome!